Learning to lead climb reddit. See full list on climbing.


Learning to lead climb reddit. Every time. Advice 1) - start lead climbing indoors. Fast clipping makes lead climbing so much Tips for a newbie with lead climbing / climbing outdoors - confidence and technique I am relatively new to climbing, and recently went on a trip with my local climbing group to try outdoor climbing for the first time. Don't let it be "am I good enough to lead this" make it "I'm climbing" which is synonymous with leading in your mind. Fairly new climber here, I learned to lead belay with an ATC, but recently got a Grigri and feel a lot more confident with it. There's no right or wrong answer, many people learn to lead from the very start. I took the lead climbing class at my gym. Yes! Does your gym offer a lead class? If it does, that's a good place to start because they will help you make sure you don't hurt yourself. 10s at least before learning to lead climb. To do this: lead climbing only when you sport climb, and take a ton of falls. Safe to say, I have mixed feelings about it now. I have experienced climbing friends who lead outdoor, but I'm thinking it may be better to learn the fundamentals indoor (?). The issue is I do not know where to start. I bought a couple books on anchors and a set of nuts. Most outdoor climbing requires at least one climber to climb on lead, and many outdoor climbers consider lead climbing as ‘real climbing’. The problem is that my local gym that I have a membership to says you need to be climbing at least a 5. People learning to lead indoors is a relatively recent thing as far as climbing history goes. In the past couple of weeks i have switched to doing mostly top roping, and just recently began lead climbing and climbing outside 41 votes, 18 comments. Please see my reply to tongmengjia here. I climb 5. My partner and I both spent $60 each and it was worth it. com Oct 7, 2019 · After learning to lead climb and leading for a few months, my gf was still having some issues paying out slack quickly with the GriGri and was a little fall-shy as a belayer and as a climber. Climb easy routes to get used to the subtleties of lead climbing. If you can consistently boulder v3/v4 outdoors you should be more than strong enough to navigate any crux climbing on 5. I don't think you need to worry about being bored sitting out or anything. 11a or onsighting 5. Always read the route before you get on it. You're already climbing and seeing success there. My biggest tips would be to lead vs. 8 with little difficulty. All other climbing, mountaineering, alpinist learning I do on my own from reading, videos, and outdoor experience. Most routes will require someone to lead climb in order to set up the toprope, and leading outdoors is harder than indoors because the bolts are usually further apart, and you have to place the quickdraws before clipping your rope in. That's very presumptuous. The belayer should use proper belay technique, control the slack properly, not short Any places that have classes to learn how lead climbing basics? Checked Stone Summit but their next available is at the end of March. 5 being almost solely indoors. I was wondering if it is better to learn lead belay on an ATC and later transition to a grigri or just go strait to belaying with a grigri? I will be learning in a gym with no intent to climb multi pitch outdoor or anything yet. Sep 4, 2019 · Lead climbing is an extremely exciting and challenging part of the sport of climbing. Should I get comfortable lead climbing indoors and outdoors first before hopping onto trad, or can I go Hey all, so I know how to lead climb and belay and have been doing it for a year now. How should I go about learning, would the best way be to spend $300 on a certified guide for a day? About Community ~~Climbing, on the sharp end. Take your time, don't rush into anything. That will allow you to start sport climbing outdoors (lead climbing while clipping the rope into pre-placed bolts with quickdraws). If you’re asking when you can start leading, and you follow these guidelines, you’re probably ready to start clipping! Do you have a regular climbing partner that you could test with? I’ve been climbing for 15 years and wouldn’t do a lead test at a gym with a stranger I had minimal climbing experience with (well, not just test I wouldn’t lead/sport climb with someone I hadn’t already climbed with for a while and was very familiar with). Definitely climb in the gym and definitely climb both sport and gear routes outdoors. To learn the new skill, reduce your variables. Is it reasonable to learn to lead climb and belay without starting with mock lead climbing and taking a gym course? I would really appreciate any advice on this. I realize that the best and safest way to learn to lead climb is to mock lead in a gym first, but I won't have enough time off work to get on real rock until next year. Now I'm on an exchange program to Scotland and there's not much outdoor sports climbing here so learning to trad climb would be ideal I guess. Did you guys take lessons when you started climbing and did it improve your skill? tldr: Do I need a certificate to lead-climb and will technique lessons improve my climbing? Edit: Since my question raised a discussion about climbing certificates and being allowed to climb in gyms I'll add my own experience. They've all expressed interest in learning to lead during this trip and I'm confident enough in their abilities as climbers and mine as an instructor to get them on the sharp end, but want some And take a lead class in a local gym, they will provide ropes. Much appreciated, thanks! Archived post. What grade walls were you doing before making the switch to lead climbing? Update: Thanks for all your advice everyone! I have convinced my brother to take the lead class with me and we will be doing that sometime after Christmas. During class, everyone rotates roles so for example during lesson #2, one person climbs, one person lead belays, one person top-rope belays, and the last person chills. It's four hours long so I'm sure I'll learn a lot, but I was just wondering if there are any useful tips or things to know about lead climbing that would be useful to know going in. I work at a gym and we do our test on a 5. That means you climb routes on top-rope, but take a lead rope up with you, too, to practice finding stances and Question 1- where are you climbing outdoors? Because a 5. Reply reply Gedoubleve • Reply reply BananaGarlicBread My climbing partner is 70 lbs lighter than me, when I lead we close the system and clove hitch her to a slung tree generally. 3 route? Or should I take an anchor building class at rei and start top roping? What helped me was learning to lead climb outside—it’s scarier, but it’s also so much more motivating because to climb a lot of cool routes you simply have to lead! I’ve been lead climbing in a gym with my friends for a couple years now. Once you feel comfortable leading on bolts, start learning trad and the art of placing gear. Hey guys :) I have been climbing indoors for about a year now. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I was wondering if there were any articles/videos/tips that you gals/guys have that can help me improve my skills and move towards being a great belayer. Learn to belay well. My climbing partner prefers to just jump right into learning how to lead instead of paying for a top rope anchor course. 2K votes, 928 comments. Very few fixed top ropes with safety back ups, people learn how to climb with the full consequence there from the get go. Thanks! 3. I've also climbed outside a few times. I think I am safe and a decent belayer, but want to improve to be a great belayer. Being nervous above the first bolt before clipping? Rational. I reckon that's the way to go in training climbers. The plus is that as a scrambler/mountaineer, you should be okay with heights, and once you start leading, should be able to cultivate a good lead head fairly quickly. How many of you started off bouldering indoors and then transitioned to lead climbing (indoors or outdoors)? Was it a smooth transition? What for you was the hardest part? In hindsight what would you have done differently? Any advice is appreciated. I wanna get into lead climbing but don't know where to start. The clove hitch is such that generally she has room to move but will prevent her being slammed into the wall, and the dynamic nature of the rope on both ends generally means a safe catch anyway. Also like others have said, take a good amount of planned falls at different levels to the bolt. 7 at the Red River Gorge is very different than a 5. I would learn at my gym, but they have a policy of needing a year of top-rope experience before being able to take the class (though if I learned on my own I could test out of it to lead climb indoors there). I started climbing outdoors-only at the beginning of 2012 by following a more experienced climber, learned how to trad climb, and now primarily climb outdoors. I started out top roping and slowly worked myself into lead. I am starting to learn lead climbing, but I want to try ice climbing and alpine climbing. Then start increasing grades as you feel comfortable. Stop fixating on Lead belaying is more difficult to learn and more stressful than lead climbing when starting out. I have a local gym, but I do not know how to lead climb or anything like that. If you don't have good footwork, you could really end up hurting yourself with a nasty ropeburn if you fall wrong. I would be more than happy to teach you to lead climb (for free)! 1. 10b-5. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Hey reddit, been learning to climb over the past few months and have begun to feel the call of newer things. Advice 2). Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. Hey I’m a new climber and I was wondering if people had some wisdom to share and what you wish you knew when you started rock climbing. When it's multiple number grades harder than you can climb lead it. And when you read the route, include the clips with it, including body position for the most effective clipping position. Taking a test is free as long as you're a licensed climber (aka member of a climbing gym or club). So the gym I went to requires you to be climbing 5. Learn proper belaying communication. 7's. See full list on climbing. Climbing is a sport with a great community, and you'll meet people and get good advice just by being around. While Most folks learn to lead climb on sport routes first. 10b and 5. Get better at clipping and foot placement. Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. Lead belay skills are valuable, they will give you a lot of options for partners. We really want to go down to the gorge to enjoy the fall weather and try some easier climbs. Always lead. I'm climbing at a 5. When I lead on the big wall I’m out of gas half way up on a 5. I find it unlikely a gym would prohibit you from lead climbing because of your ACL injury. Thanks in advance and have a good one! Imaging yourself falling is really common (it’s currently holding back my lead climbing big time), imagining yourself cleanly climbing is harder, it’s more involved, but it’s beneficial. Reply reply From bouldering, you can find a partner and start toproping and eventually should learn to lead climb inside. this will feel very different and will probably take some time to reach the grades you climb in the gym. . Once the climber finishes, everyone rotates positions. I highly recommend learning to lead climb. Mostly because the trad gear was so expensive. Learn to Lead Trad Climbing Course Options Howdy folks! My goal next summer is to start getting comfortable leading, and I wanted to take this learn to lead course in the PNW. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 7 at the gunk's or Seneca. top rope whenever feasible to get better at learning to rest efficiently & feel more comfortable with lead. The reality is that you need to learn how to rock climb, it’s takes time and energy. I climb V3, and 5. Before you Climb Always do a partner check before climbing. Even if you do all of your easier warm-ups on lead before moving to top roping, it'll make a difference! I'd also practice clipping off the wall. Also, if you can afford it, taking a beginner's class is a good way to learn how to belay and get tips on how to get started climbing. Should I start learning how to lead climb now, or wait till much later. Is the transition difficult or are they similar enough that it shouldn't be too much of a change? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Decathlon ropes are fine for beginners. After about 2 years of climbing at the gym, learning to sport lead, and taking weekend trips to crags in the southeast, I finally said "fuck it". 10 beforehand. I can't speak about the classes at Cornell because I took brock my last semester at Cornell. 10a make the climber climb to 6th quickdraw take an announced fall then continue climbing and take a suprise fall then finish the route. So I guess the summary of this would be: - I'd find an intro to climbing or sport climbing course. Used a recent trip to Arizona as an excuse to buy all the gear I need to sport climb and taught myself to lead. I would like to start training and potentially go on my first alpine in the next year. Learn how movement works, learn the basics of exercise science, and do your best to set the base for efficient training later on. The home of Climbing on reddit. So I can finally comfortably climb 6a (5. The gym lead tests I've taken are all on juggy routes 5. We went there last year to boulder and were asking about It took me a pandemic to realize I should exclusively lead climb in the gym if I want to be a better lead climber outdoors. I wanted to know when the right time would be to take the lead climbing class my gym offers. You just don't want to have to think too much about basic movements on the wall One company suggested that we focus on learning how to build top rope anchors and get more outdoor experience first before learning to lead. But if you're talking about asking a friend/climbing partner to teach you, you can always start by mock-leading, if your gym allows it. Much more important than being able to lead climb. Don’t just psyche yourself up, methodically review a climb and how you’re going to cruise up it. None of us have lead climbed before and have not taken the lead class at our gym. The basics of learning to lead and build simple anchors. I've been climbing for about 4. Length depends on where you will use it. I think that's a good recommendation just because you have to be comfortable and strong enough to take one hand off the wall for what feels like a significant amount of time (when learning) to clip. Are you tied/clipped in to the correct part of your harness? Have you actually been shown the correct way to use this gym's autobelay? Gym staff will be happy to help, if you aren't sure, ask. One possibility is, my local gym offers classes on both top rope and lead climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I feel as if I’m wasting a lot time on the auto belays. Basically i'm looking for some insight on how to make some significant gains on my indoor and outdoor lead climbing, and my limiting factor so far is getting pumped ~3/4 up the route. If you get on a couple super easy climbs to start to get the feel for it and get over the fear. Most gyms have quickdraws/carabiners at head height on a wall somewhere, most also have an old chopped rope that can be used to 'mock lead' (you tie in as normal, then tie in the fake "lead" rope with either no belayer on it or a fake third person Hey climber girls! recently I have been feeling extremely afraid when I lead climb out of nowhere. Does anyone have experience with taking this 3hr class at sender? I would be taking the class by myself. I signed up to take a lead climbing course there this coming Sunday. As you climb the route practice clipping into the quick draws. I strongly prefer it and it forces you to have better technique for both belaying and climbing. So i have been bouldering for about a year now, and can consistently climb v4-v5. Is it possible to top or lead rope solo? Also this may sound like a dumb question but how do you top rope outside? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Instead of trying to learn to lead and trying to learn to climb outdoors, take on one thing. How did you guys learn to climb outdoors? I'm so lost. The crash pad was entirely a waste because I didn't even get off the ground! I even had a guidebook that told me where to find the VB/V0 routes. I would love to learn how to lead belay so I can go outside. I want to take up lead climbing, is this sort of course worth it? If you can climb with someone who can lead climb and belay already they can just show you. Anyone else learn lead by doing? My friends and I are planning our first outdoor lead climbing trip in the coming weeks. I've started to think about lead climbing and so has my climbing partner. Are lead climbing courses worth it? I have been top roping at the local gym for a year and a bit, and they charge around 85$ for a lead climbing course. 11a/V3 indoors. I talked to my gyms front desk about a lead climbing course for my partner and me. I'd led for a few years before I got into trad. Reply reply New Step 1) learn lead, practice a ton of lead Step 2) after this feels very comfortable, look around whether there are sport climbing crags close to you that have anchors at the top Step 3) learn how to clean a route in this area. All have about a year's experience climbing in the gym but none have ever led or done any serious climbing on real rock. Reply reply KingPupPup • 12 votes, 98 comments. First time leading indoor or outdoors Hi, I have recently been invited to go lead climbing outdoors, but I have never had a lead climbing lesson indoors. Trad, sport, aid, doesn't matter as long as it's on lead. Even a new climber (or 2 new climbers) can learn/practice leading outside in a safe manner. trueTaking some friends out on their first outdoor climbing trip this weekend. What recommendations does anyone have for starting? What gear I should need? A good first Its required for me to lead climb there and gave me the gist of it. 9 and below because it's not meant to be a test of your climbing ability. They must know what a back clip is and a z clip as well as show confidence while doing so. A lot of Reddit has this do-it-yourself attitude and this is not a safe approach for rock climbing. The mere fact that you are unsure of the equipment you need to lead climb tells me that you are clearly not going to lead safely. And yes we are scared of falling. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. May be a possibility to check at a local gym if theres one around. Being nervous at the 5th bolt when the whip is clean? Irrational. Read about the basics of lead climbing, including what lead climbing entails, how to learn to do it and what gear is required. Ask the staff what is in the lead test. A popular method to overcame fear in lead climbing is so called "fall training" where the climber is asked to climb some distance above a bolt or a bomber wire and then letting go, taking a safe fall that ends well (i. General insight: footwork is everything with lead climbing. Then I would work in strength training 3 or 4 days a week. Once you can lead 10- indoors start sport climbing outside, as much as possible. We were learning from a guy who had 25 years of experience as a climber, guide, and gym manager. (works where a route offers both top rope and For me, learning to recognize when fear was appropriate and when it wasn't really helped. Here's a cool photo of me nearing the top of my favorite one, "Magical Staircase" in Sedona. Sounds dumb and obvious, but this realization totally changed my climbing and if you're a TR warrior with outdoor goals, it could change yours. I am super new to climbing. I was leading 10+ / 11- routes and taking big falls and just focused on getting stronger and better at the sport which of course was so much fun. Ended up bagging six different 5. 1. Where I'm from (Norway) most gyms teach you lead climbing as part of the initial course you're required to take before you even get to climb on your own. It's great to start off with top, it's a good way to learn technique and build confidence but if you're waiting to reach a point where you know 100% you're ready for lead, you might not reach it. It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. Jan 13, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The intro to trad courses frequently involve focusing on trad gear placements and anchor building - definitely useful if you want to get into trad (tho it seems that you might focus on sport Agree. Now I'm in Wanaka NZ with a day off and hired a guide to learn some safety stuff on rock: anchors, belaying and rappelling. Also wanted to know what it is to lead climb so we gave it a go. 10b on top rope. Reply reply license_to To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. Has anyone taken the Lead class at sender one? I want to start getting into lead climbing. Most of the people I lead climb with were already using a Grigri when they began leading and learned that way. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. Its a good way to get practice belaying a leader, clipping, rappelling, making simple anchors, etc. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? You get partnered up with someone approximately the same weight. 10 before taking a lead class. At my gym, they recommend you should feel very comfortable climbing 5. 10c top roping but they’re probably my limits for now ! Hey Stone Summit climbers, if you want to learn to lead climb let me know. I learned to lead last spring and was never really nervous or scared learning or climbing. I personally would say climb 3 days a week splitting that into your monday session, your thursday session, and then thursday again. My main goals are sport climbing but my climbing partner isn’t always available and sometimes I only have about a 1 hour to climb due to work or life. Sep 1, 2017 · This blog on how to learn to lead climb can serve as a guide to figure out if you’re ready to lead. How many QuickDraws will I need? What’s the best online place to find good routes? What are some of your favorite routes? (We can comfortably send 11’s indoors). It was easy to get comfortable climbing top, and I still get nervous climbing lead. You take a test in a licensed club to obtain each passport, which involves climbing a few routes at a given level and belaying on toprope (white passport)/on lead (yellow passport). I learned how to lead climb 6 months after learning how to top rope climb. I got into climbing this year and have spent a lot of indoor climbing, both top roping and bouldering. My goal is to be climbing outdoors by next spring. The two guys I am going with are experienced lead climbers and said they can teach me there. They said I should be able to consistently climb an 11b or higher before lead climbing, and I should wait a little bit longer. I started leading within a couple months of getting into climbing. Another thing to do in a gym is to “mock lead”, which is basically tying into top rope and just dragging a lead rope up with you. Learn to climb with zero fear through gradual exposure to falling higher up and in more strenuous positions while you're trying hard. After reading the other comments, I thought the option was to climb with an ohm or not climb at all, so I really appreciate the words of encouragement in learning to belay without! It seems to consensus is to get an ohm so I will likely bite the bullet and use the time until it comes to do some fall training on easy routes. Seconding (thirding?) the "just show up" advice. What is the best way to go about learning to rock climb. The more indoor lead experience you have before heading outdoors, the better. 10c), all on top-rope. I want to climb outside as much as possible. Learn to build toprope anchors and you can toprope outside as well. Trans tomboys and medieval weapons But I have to learn how to take a lead fall, because if I don’t, I’ll never improve. I am interested in learning to lead climb asap as there’s a lot of stuff outside with bolts obviously, but I figure it’s better to learn the safety stuff from a class on this one than have my buddies teach me out in the wild. For gyms, usually 60m is ok. In terms of recommendations, I Interested in lead climbing? Want to learn more about it? Learn everything you need to know with this definitive lead climbing guide for beginners. What sucks is that I apparently get honest-to-god panic attacks up there. 7K subscribers in the GuildValkyrie community. I've also been climbing for about 5 months already, if that helps. I can comfortably climb 5. I wanted to get the community’s thoughts on choosing Leavenworth versus Squamish as the class location. When people start to lead, they often become nervous, overgrip, stop Going from bouldering to lead climbing? How hard is this transition? I want to eventually start doing lead climbing outdoors so I want to start doing indoor leading climbing at some point in the future to start preparing myself. If you want to learn to lead climb outdoors, you should know what lead climbing entails, and again go with someone who has experience if you wish to fast track yourselves. I bought a crash pad and went to Castle Rock for some outdoor bouldering, but I did horribly. Next, try to think about what the best fear response is, and how to train yourself to respond that way. MembersOnline • [deleted] ADMIN Learning to lead trad So I know everyone says to take a course to be mentored by an expert to learn trad, but I'm wondering what you guys would think about my situation. For many, learning to lead is the logical next step after getting comfortable on top rope, and is a means for someday leading trad or sport routes outside. 9 and when I boulder I can barely send v3s. Is that carabiner actually locked properly? Check knots. without bodily hurt or excessive panic attacks). 5 years, my first 3. Hey everyone! I've been climbing for about 3 months now in the gym on my campus. 10a), and projecting a few 6a+ and 6b (5. How long did everyone climb before learning to lead? Should I just take indoor lead climb classes and then take it outdoors to like a 5. e. 10 on gear, which is good for In the gym, learning to lead climb is really just learning how to clip and learning how to belay. ~~ lol we aren't pussies Created Jan 22, 2013 362 Members 5 Online Top 50% Ranked by Size Learn to lead climb and lead belay indoors. Recently I can barely get up an easier route without The basics of lead climbing/belaying aren't rocket science, but there are a lot more things you'll need to know and be able to do. lls eqdwk jjpp olfb wmvvk trdrfuh aon pzv siccmx pcbsj